The Amalfie Coast and Southwards

Finally it was time to depart the happy orangegrove of Pompei after 1 enjoyable week. On a gray rainy morning we packed the paniers and set out first on the train to Sorrento, then on the bikes up over the ridge and down onto the famous Amalfie Coast. The road winds around high up on the cliffs and drops down steeply to blue blue sea. There are villages scattered in the most unlikely places. Other campers at the orange grove had said that the road was notorious for dangerous traffic, but we found it pretty quiet and not too bad, if a tad narrow at times. However, the large quantity of barb wire fences, rubbish, and lack of beach access did detract from it a little.

We continued around the coast and had made it as far as Amalfir township itself when disastor struck. Chris's back rim cracked entirely for no reason! This was rather bad (see below).

So he ran the next 5 km in Minori where there was supposedly a bike shop. Unfortunalty that didn't open till4.30 so we had to muck around for 2 hours. Consequently Chris turned into a monkey and climbed a tree.

When it finally opened the shop sold Chris a new wheel and cluster for a bargain 30 euro (it was pretty crappy stuff, but better than nothing!). So we were off - but unfortunatly now it was 5.30 and dark! So we had a nasty hour riding round the last bit of coast with lots of traffic until we reached Salerno. There we went to the railway station and bought tickets for the 20 min train ride to Paestum. It was late when we arrived, and we started biking towards the campground past the temples which were all lit up in the dark. Then there was a loud growl as a large thunder storm hit, so we arrived drenched at the campground and splashed out on a cabin.

In the morning it was still raining so we wandered to the Greek temples for a look. We went back to the cabin and had some delicious brew ups for the rest of the day. The next day was still pouring, so some interneting and wanderiong along the stormy beach outside the cabin was undertaken.

Finally the next morning was a little clearer so we forked out our money for a wander amoungst the funky temples, then cycled our way into the Cilento National Park on the coast which is baisically just an ugly citiafied coastline and I have no idea why it is called a national park. The ride was gray and the angry dogs barked while rubbish lined the roads...then Chris got a flat tyre, then another. Finally on dark we snuck into a closed campground which felt safe and we slept well.

In the morning we cycled round to Palinuro, hoping to exit the so called national park asap! Just after Palinuro we found a beach we could actually get down to, a rubbishy pine forest and beach but no houses!! So we picnicked then continued round a nicer stretch of coast to a pleasant Marina di Calabris.

From there we headed up a steep clòimb that was supposed to lead us over a 500 m pass to Sapri. However Mr Chris I Am A Good Navigator took us up the wrong hill! So we had to go all the way back down, then round and up the correct 500m pass where there were more barking dogs. Then Chris had a massive tyre blow out on the way down and it was dark - things were looking grim! Luckily we managed to hitch a lift in one of the classic Italien 3 wheel trucks to the railway, got to a bike shop to fix the puncture and caught a train to Sapri. At Apri we cooked dinner on the platform, then caught the 2 hour train ride to Palmi where we knew there was a campground.At 11 pm at night Palmi is a very scray place with big barb fences, not a sole around and lots of big barking dogs. And low and behold the large unclimable gates of the campground was shut and noone answered the buzzer. After some panicking I spotted the large flashing neon HOTEL sign , so that is where we went! It was a 4 star hotel, but the nice man offered us a cheaper rate so it wasn't too expensive and we had a luxiourious sleep both vowing not to let that happen again!

The next day we decided to head away from mainland Italy and it was off to Sicily with train, then a 1 euro ferry ride, then more training to a campground 60 km South along the coast which was definatly supposed to be open. But it was shut! Getting very frustrated we asked some Italiens if they knew somewhere we could stay and they pointed to the seaside. So we found a nice cheap bad and breakfast run by a big Italien lady who spoke no english and we were the only guests. But it was nice and even had a verandah overlooking the beach where we could cook tea. We were in Letojanni, a very small village.

In the morning we decided to head up the Alcantara gorge which had an eyeball on our map which usually means its good. So off along the coast on the bikes , the Taormina headland was nice to lòook at, but all the beaches are owned privatly by hotels which really sucks. We cycled on the busy roads to the big gorge turn off sign and headed in to be told we had to pay 3 euro to go down to the gorge from this big ticket office thing, so we grudgingly paid. The gorge was really nice with large volcanic rocks and we sat and enjoyed our lunch.

We wandered into the cold water of the gorge and up to a wee waterfall.

On our return we noticed another track and headed up that to discover it was a free entrance with no payment required! So we went back and asked for our money back which of course did not go down well and we got no money back. We headed back to our room for a yummy dinner.

We headed off on the following day to Catania by bike. The cycle was not so lovely, pretty dirty, alot of traffic and Chris got 2 more flatties. The coast was lined with factories and rubbish, not what one pictures of idyllic sicillian beaches.We finally reached the outskirts of Catania and located camping Jonio which is right on the seaside. It is a very rocky coast, big black volcanic rocks and very wild at the moment. We set up camp relievd to have for once made it there before dark.

Chris was keen for some paddle practise for Dubai so in the morning we discovered that the campground miraculously hired out little canoe sity on top of things. Getting in and out was pretty tricky with big swells pounding againgst sharp rocks you had to wait for a calm patch then jump in quickly and scramble onto the kayak. We headed round to the Catania port and the coast was pretty ugly, but the swell made it exciting!

When we got backl the guy who lent us them looked rather relieved - i think he thought we were a bit crazy! The Italians wont swim at the moment because the 20 degree balmy water is too cold! In the afternoon we organised oursleves for the grand finale of our cycle touring adventure - the Mount Etna Mission!